（本文完整交代Mogens Jensen的攻頂過程，有完整英文紀錄與簡略中文翻譯。）

（無法忍受懸疑的人，可以拉到最下方，先偷看攻頂結果。）

丹麥登山家Mogens Jensen，試圖創下「世界第一位不靠氧氣瓶登頂聖母峰的氣喘患者」的紀錄。

使不使用氧氣瓶，在登山界，是一個激辯中的議題。

1978年，義大利登山家Rheinhold Messner創下第一次的成功紀錄，1980年他又成功了一次。海拔高度對人類腦部的影響，會減損登山家正常思考的能力，增加致命的危險，Messner的舉動，也因此受到撻伐。

但是另外一些人認為，氧氣瓶提供了一種「錯誤的安全感」，讓一些不夠格的人，誤以為自己有能力攻頂；另外，廢棄的氧氣瓶在高山區造成的環境污染問題，也日益嚴重。

所以，登山界正在討論「完全禁用氧氣瓶」的提議。

Mogens Jensen，在2005年做了他第一次的挑戰，遇上了聖母峰十五年來最惡劣的氣候，最後因為嚴重的腳趾凍傷，在離峰頂只有四百公尺的地方折返了，功虧一簣，沒有成功攻頂。

2006年，Mogens在他的登山鞋裡，加裝了使用電池的加熱設備，再度挑戰聖母峰。他走的是攻頂的兩條路線中，難度比較高的北線 (North Route)。

我在這個荷商葛蘭素史克藥廠 gsk 的網站上（他們是Mogens的贊助商），找到了Mogens的登山日記。

發現他除了人很酷、做的事情很酷之外，文筆也很酷。

底下全文貼出，有興趣的人可以一讀，從人家歷盡辛苦得來的感想中，獲得一些inspiration。

（映照在他墨鏡中的，就是聖母峰，你看看，連照片也超酷。）

Report 1　8 April 2006

回到聖母峰感覺真好！這裡感覺幾乎像是我的第二個家！

Sunshiny greetings to all from "the end of the world" or, more precisely, Everest Base Camp (BC), Tibet , at 5,200m above sea level.

Yesterday I finally arrived at BC after a journey from Kathmandu on a bicycle that went a bit off-track. The first couple of days went well and I was enjoying the ride immensely with sunshine, green valleys and roaring rivers.

（鐵人Mogens，從加德滿都去基地營，竟然是騎單車去的！）

However, my body started to malfunction. On day two, going from the border of Kodari at 1,800m to Nyalam in Tibet at 3,780m , my energy levels were falling by the minute, leaving me totally fatigued.

After two days trying to recover in Nyalam, I started out on the 150km trip to Tingri, the last town before BC. I soon realised there was no way I could do this - I was almost falling off the bike. You don't cycle into 5,200m while ill, so I climbed into a vehicle and finished the last stage on four wheels instead of two.

（但是騎到一半，他的身體發生了一點感染的狀況，為了保留戰力，後半段他只好選擇了搭車。去年第一次來挑戰的時候，他全程都是騎單車。）

I'm not that disappointed since the main focus is Mount Everest . And in any case I know I can do the ride because I did it this time last year. I have now finished my antibiotics course and have returned to full fitness.

It feels so good to be back on Everest. It almost feels like my second home. And it fitted perfectly that the rest of the expedition arrived at BC almost the same time as me.

Adding climbers, sherpas and a Discovery Channel crew, the expedition totals more than 50 people. We all settled into our tents, creating our home for the next two months. The sherpas had arrived before us and have done a tremendous job setting up most of the camp. These guys are really impressive and work so hard.

（這次拍攝，登山客、雪巴人、攝影工作人員、加一加總共有五十多人，要在那裡紮營兩個月。雪巴人已經事先為大家搭好了帳篷。）

During the first few days, we were more or less "grounded" and not allowed to exercise. Acclimatisation has to be very conservative otherwise mountain sickness can occur so quickly. We have to gradually adjust to the altitude with its low pressure and oxygen deprivation.

This initial period is always tough and we all suffer from the effects of this high altitude. The normal symptoms are headaches, insomnia, diarrhoea, light-headedness and loss of appetite, but as you adjust the problems diminish and hopefully disappear.

（在抵達基地營的頭幾天，登山客被「禁足」，不能運動，以便讓身體開始逐漸適應高海拔環境，一開始的幾天要特別小心，不然高山症可是會說來就來。）

The plan for us in the coming week is to gradually start going on small acclimatisation treks by climbing to about 5,900m . This will start telling the body to prepare itself for going higher.

Next Saturday, probably, we will all be preparing to drag our bodies the 23km up the zig-zag East Rongbuk moraine to Advanced Base Camp (ABC) at 6,400m . ABC is actually the real base camp for us because it is at the foot of Everest.

Signing off from BC Everest.

Mogens

Report 2　14 April 2006

Puja blessings and the readying for "getting up the hill"

Another week has flown, carried by the jetstream winds thundering towards the coveted summit of Everest.

Two things in particular have occupied my rather oxygen-deprived brain here in Base Camp (BC) since I last reported. First and foremost was the Puja, which took place on a very windblown Tuesday morning. Puja is a religious ceremony where monks come up from the Rongbuk monastery just 5km from BC. It must be the highest monastery on earth, at 5,100 m above sea level.

In the days leading up to the Puja the sherpas prepared the chorten - a rock mound with long lines of prayer flags in it. To all of us - climbers, sherpa, guides, TV crew - the Puja is a gateway to climbing the mountain.

We seek its blessing and put personal items by the chorten. The sherpas take it ultra seriously and they would probably not climb the mountain if they had not been through it. Having given it some thought, neither would I.

（雪巴人舉行了Puja儀式，搭了這個chorten石塊堆，用來祈福，大家也都把個人物品放在旁邊，尋求保佑。如果沒有這個儀式，雪巴人是不願意出發的。Mogens想了一想，決定.........他也一樣。）

On life in general and the task ahead: you realise the challenge - literally in front of you -which will demand everything you've got for the next 50-60 days, physically and even more mentally. As you know from my last report, I arrived in BC after an infection. Recovery is significantly slower in the mountains so I have been struggling a bit. However, during the past week I went on two small treks to prepare for going higher.

The first walk went well. I went with others on a 1.5 hour easy hike up to some small but beautiful lakes. After this I wanted to do a little more, so I spent 20 minutes on a rather hard trek up the East Rongbuk moraine, which is the same route we will follow to the Advanced Base Camp (ABC). On the following day, however, a boomerang hit me, telling me I wasn’t rid of the infection yet. So it was more rest for me.

But yesterday I was feeling much better and wanted to test myself over a longer time. This involved hiking up to the Interim camp at 5,800m , about halfway to ABC at 6,400m . With the winds I felt I was flying up the trail, which is pretty much one long zig-zag between rocks ranging from the size of a football to a small bus. I took the hike down nice and easy, but I was still tired and light-headed when I got back to BC, 4.5 hours after leaving.

(在出發往前進基地營ABC之前，Mogens已經生病生的頭昏腦脹、頭重腳輕，但是還是要不斷健行以讓身體適應環境並恢復體力。光是一次健行，一走就是四個半小時！普通人應該連一次熱身健行都應付不了吧？)

My next chapter will come to you from ABC, to which we start trekking on Saturday and Sunday. Because of our numbers we need to go in two waves - Interim camp houses only about 18 people at a time. I have chosen to go on Sunday. It will be more than nice to get up the hill, the next vital step for us in our preparations for the summit.

Signing off from BC Everest.

Mogens

Report 3　24 April 2006

At the foot of "Big E" - Advanced Base Camp

Chilly greetings from Everest Advanced Base Camp (ABC), situated at 6,400m . Since last week the expedition has moved on and we are now at the foot of "Big E".

This means unzipping our tents for a stunning view each morning for the whole of the North Face. However, it also means temperatures dropping to minus 20 degrees Celsius during the night – and that's inside the tent.

I went on the 23km hike on Sunday and Monday, sleeping at Interim camp on Sunday night. The long trek went really well and I was even a bit faster than last year. In fact the whole team – climbers, film crew and others – did well.

Once again the sherpas had done a fantastic job setting up the ABC. They have already been preparing for the next stage of our climb, setting up camp at North Col and fixing ropes to 7,500m .

(前進基地營到了！每天早上拉開帳篷，映入眼簾的就是壯觀的聖母峰北面！）

We are all trying to get comfortable here. You get out of breath just reaching for your drinking bottle and sleeping is done in intervals, since the high altitude makes you want to go to the toilet more often. My appetite is challenged, but eating is crucial – the body's demand for calories is twice that at sea level. Generally, I'm feeling good, though I would like the quality of my sleep to improve.

（吃不下，睡不好，整晚一直起來尿尿，然後還要整天上上下下的走，好讓身體能夠逐漸適應不斷增加的海拔高度，而Mogens的精神依然高昂。）
 
Most of the team went for a hike towards crampon point (the place where crampons are first used) yesterday and that went well. The plan for the next week is to go to the North Col / Camp 1 on "Big E" at 7,066m , coming back to ABC on the same day. After a few days of rest we will then return to North Col to sleep and acclimatise further, readying for going even higher.

Until then this is Mogens signing out, closer to the top of the world.

High spirits.

Mogens

Report 4 　29 April 2006

On fire for the fight of each step

Warm greetings from Advanced Base Camp (ABC) again.

What a difference a week makes here. The weather gods have blessed us with a significant change for the good. Sunshine and no wind means we don't have to wear ourselves down all the time.

We have been active in the past week, going twice to the North Col at 7,066m . Sunday was a ‘tagging’ day when we went up, stayed for an hour or two and then went back to ABC.

（攻頂的過程原來是這麼辛苦！不是一路向上爬，而是上去又下來、上去又下來，從基地營ABC到下一個營North Col，Mogens已經上去了兩次，每次待一兩個小時又下來，這樣身體才能適應，然後再慢慢地在上面待久一點，睡個一晚再下來，就這樣慢慢地向上推進。）

We had all looked forward to these vital steps, yet at the same time were a bit nervous. It would be a rather hard task, with the first climbing with crampons, boots, fixed lines and a 30-60 per cent incline.

But it was a perfect, shiny and windless day and everybody except one of the group, who had a foot problem, made it there in good times, ranging from two and a half to four and three quarters hours. I felt good going up. My breathing was great and my legs felt strong. We then rested for three days.

（終於可以休息三天，這是Mogens帳篷看出去的view。）

On Thursday we went up again, this time to sleep. We followed a glacier on the whole trip. First was a rocky moraine which turned into ice and mostly snow. The first third was a mild incline – until you reached the fixed ropes. Here the incline went to 30 to 60 per cent, with your pulse going much higher.

Each step was a fight. On this day however, I felt I was on fire. My lungs and legs united into a perfect cocktail as I charged up the hill. I have never seen this sort of speed in me before. I felt I could just go and go. I was there in 2.06 hours – some 20 minutes faster than ever before. Even the sherpas break a little sweat to match that time, so I was thrilled with my performance. It is a good sign for later.

（Mogens發威的一天！從基地營ABC爬上北坳North Col，只花了2.06小時！創下連雪巴人都不容易達成的時間紀錄！）

We all made it there for a night in the 10-man tent that the sherpas had set up. At around 7pm, after a few noodles and a lot of brews, we settled down for the night, yet there was not to be much sleep in a coughing, snoring, new altitude dreamland…

So early next morning, not surprisingly, everybody was keen to get back to the much more comfortable ABC.

On Monday we will head up for the finishing touches of our preparation phase before the summit push, sleeping one night at North Col and then spending the next day at Camp 2 at 7,500m . After that we will go down to rest and prepare for the big push.

If the weather holds, it looks like an earlier summit this season – maybe mid-May rather than the planned end of May. We will have to wait and see. I for one won't complain if the schedule is changed.

（天氣很好，可能會提前兩週攻頂，對身體狀況極佳的Mogens來說，是一件好事。）

I feel very good right now. And my asthma is in complete control.

Signing off with high spirits,

Mogens

Report 5　6 May 2006

The waiting game begins

It's with great pleasure I can tell you that six of our sherpas went to the summit of Mount Everest last week in what is the earliest summit ever following the North route.

（六位雪巴人已經成功攻頂了，是這條路線有史以來最早的登頂時間（五月初就登頂了）。而他們上去只是為了替這些西方登山客架設繩索和搭帳篷！）

（以下是我的想法，雖然登山客對雪巴人都心懷感謝和尊敬，但是不知道有沒有人想試試看，不靠雪巴人的幫助，自己攻頂啊？這些登山客，拼盡全力才能完成的事，雪巴人可以一邊幫他們扛補給、一邊幫他們打雜，「順便」也通通攻頂了。這些知名度很高的登山家好像創下了很多紀錄，事實上，許許多多真正的「第一次」，應該都是雪巴人的紀錄才對？！）

And this was just in preparing the mountain for us climbers by fixing ropes and setting up camps. It was an outstanding achievement which displayed their superhuman strength. My biggest and warmest congratulations go to them.

We have now finished our acclimatisation period, having slept another night at North Col. Everybody on our team made good times going up there, and this bodes well for the coming challenge that is rising literally in front of us.

We are now resting and refuelling back at Advanced Base Camp (ABC), waiting for the right weather window to appear. We will then head off for the summit bid.

Now, the waiting game begins. This means time for thought, with feelings of joy, excitement, expectations, fear, anxiety and nervousness flowing through -  all ingredients that will be necessary to get me up and down safely.

When I do head off, my mental backpack will be filled with intense motivation and willpower mixed with 'humble pie' and huge respect for the mountain.

（到現在，身體的準備工作已經差不多完成了，接下來就是「等」了，等適合的天氣一出現，立刻就要出發攻頂。）

I go there on nature's terms and am fully aware that, in a sense, I must conquer myself and nothing else. Next time I sign in may be just before heading off. The plot thickens.

High spirits,

Mogens

Report 6　9 May 2006

It's a go: I'm heading for summit

I won't be sending any bulletins on the climb – the satellite telephone is too heavy to carry – but will hopefully report from ABC after a successful summit at 8,850m . On this earth, you can't get higher. I can't wait.

8,850公尺，在這個地球上，你不能再更高了！我等不及了。

High spirits,

Mogens　　

I am back in Advanced Base Camp (ABC) after attempting to reach the summit. It did not go to plan.

（很可惜，這次嘗試失敗了。）

（離開高度7,900公尺第三營之後半小時，Mogens急性高山症發作，一切都在五分鐘之內發生：頭重腳輕、失去平衡、幾乎昏厥以及嘔吐。他只能立刻回基地營休息。）

Acute mountain sickness struck half an hour after leaving Camp 3, at 7,900m . This meant going from feeling super to being dizzy, lightheaded, off balance, almost fainting, and vomiting - all in the space of five minutes.

It was a scary experience. There was only one thing to do - get down as soon as possible and back to ABC to recover.

We were held up an extra day at Camp 3 because of the weather, and I think this may have triggered the sickness.

（因為天氣的狀況，所以他們在第三營多待了一天，對於不靠氧氣瓶的Mogens來說，情況非常不利。Mogens也覺得自己的身體可能還沒準備好，不過他還要再試一次。)

At that height you are on borrowed time and with our fast acclimatisation programme I don't think my body was ready. However, it is ready now and I'm hoping I will have the opportunity for a second summit bid. I certainly feel motivated for it.

We put 12 people on the summit yesterday, so many congratulations are due to them. They had a hard, cold day with a lot of bottlenecks - more than 60 people went for the top.

（昨天共有六十人嘗試，其中十二人登頂成功了。）

Signing off with high spirits,

Mogens

Report 8 　22 May 2006

I'm off on another summit bid

I am back in Advanced Base Camp (ABC) after a four-day rest in lovely thick air, packing my gear for another summit bid.

I've also been camping for two nights at 7,900m to be fully acclimatised.

（在休息了四天之後，Mogens又回到了基地營，而且還在7,900公尺的第三營睡了兩晚，以調整身體狀態。）

My plan now is:
 
Today, North Col, Camp 1 at 7,100m
23 May, Camp 3 at 7,800m
24.May, Camp 4 at 8,300m
25 May, summit bid

（上面這是他的攻頂計畫。）

I will go with Phurba Tashi, a leading sherpa who has no fewer than 10 summits to his name. He will be on oxygen to ensure my safety. He is without doubt the strongest sherpa I have ever seen, so I am in good hands.

（一名已經有十次攻頂經驗的雪巴人Phurba Tashi會陪Mogens上去，Phurba會全程使用氧氣，以確保Mogens的安全，Mogens覺得Phurba是他見過的雪巴人中，最強壯的一個，所以Mogens也信心滿滿。）

The rest of my team members have all left and are on their way home. We had a little party on Friday (with me on soft drink, naturally). We even had a special guest. You can see from the picture of the celebrations that we now know where Elvis has been hiding for all these years…

（隊裡其他人都已經打道回衙了，星期五大家慶祝的時候，Mogens不能喝酒、只喝飲料，因為他正在準備再挑戰一次。）

In a few days, I hope to be signing back in with a different kind of picture. Wish me luck.

（他又要出發攻頂了，真是一位鐵人，在身體上和心理上。）

High spirits,

Mogens

結果如何呢？好緊張～好緊張～

底下這一篇，是2006年的最後一篇日記。

Report 9 　27 May 2006

A bolt of lightning – and I plod down the hill again

Well, the summit will have to wait another year before I can stand on it.

（哎！又失敗了。）

My second attempt to reach the summit was cut short just 100m before Camp 2 at 7,500m when I was again hit by a bolt of lightning – acute mountain sickness – that left vomiting, with vertigo and a loss of balance.

（這次在高度7,500公尺的第二營前一百公尺處，急性高山症又來了。）

My only choice was to turn my size 47 boots around and, with a crying heart, plod down the hill again. Needless to say I am rather disappointed, especially since I had been feeling extremely strong throughout most of the expedition.

（他帶著他47號的大靴子和一顆哭泣的心，再度回頭了，他當然是失望到了極點，因為這一次探險過程中，他一直都覺得狀況很好。）

I performed way beyond my expectations – that is one of the positive things this year. Ironically, I had the reputation of being the strongest non-sherpa of all the expeditions. Not bad going for an asthmatic. However, no summit for me this time.

（雖然這次登頂沒有成功，但是對一個氣喘患者來說，被稱為此次探險中最強壯的「非雪巴人」，已經是一種了不起的成就。）

Will I be back? Of course I will, climbing the highest mountain in the world without additional oxygen. It's a challenge that I remain convinced I can meet. It's just taking a little longer than anticipated…

（Mogens認為不靠氧氣瓶登頂，是他一定可以辦到的事，只是比他預期的要花更多一點時間而已。）

In a sense, I actually think Everest saved me this year, since 2006 has turned out to be something of a disaster because of too many deaths. I met and spoke to a couple of climbers who went up and never got down – one of them the Swedish skier. We all know it's risky business, of course, but no one comes here to die. So when it happens to someone you've met or know it hits you like a truck.

（2006年是聖母峰登山季有史以來喪生人數最多、爭議也最大的一季。Mogens認為，其實聖母峰救了他，大家當然都知道這是很危險的事，但是沒有人想死在山上。）

I am now back in Kathmandu . I want to thank all my sponsors, including GSK, for their great support, my fiance Camilla, family and all my friends. I hope you will join me again next year. It will be third time lucky for me, maybe. It must be my turn to get a little bit of luck. It's all I need.

（Mogens回到了加得滿都，謝謝大家的支持，並且希望大家明年也要繼續支持　他，因為.............他還要再挑戰一次！）

High spirits,

Mogens

Discovery拍攝的2006年聖母峰登山季紀錄片KEEP WALKING，在這裡就告一段落了。不管成功或失敗，大家都回到了地面，繼續生活（除了那些永遠留在山上的人之外）。

對我們來說，節目結束了，我們跟聖母峰短暫的關係也就結束了。

但是，對Mogens Jensen來說，一切還沒有結束！！！

2007年聖母峰登山季一到，他又上去了！！！

而且這一次，他終於成功了！！！

2007年5月22日星期二，就在兩個多禮拜之前，他攻頂成功了。

底下是他真正的最後一篇日記。

Report 10 　24 May 2007

Mount Everest success for asthmatic Mogens Jensen

Mogens Jensen, the Danish asthmatic sponsored by GSK in 2006 for his attempt to climb to the summit of Mount Everest , has succeeded in his bid to reach the peak in May 2007.

In near-perfect conditions, it was Mogens' third attempt to become the first asthmatic to scale the world's highest mountain without the use of additional oxygen.

"On Tuesday of this week, at 0630, I stood on the summit of Mount Everest . I had finally reached my goal and spent 30 minutes on the roof of the world with my sherpa Dorje Sonam Gyaltsen," says Mogens.

He was forced to use some oxygen as he neared the peak: "I had to use it to get there because my asthma was playing tricks on me - there was no way I could have summited without breathing with what felt like one lung," he says.

"I am totally happy - I have reached my goal. For sure, it was one of the greatest moments of my life. In such clear weather it was the most stunning view I've experienced - it's no wonder they call it the theatre of dreams."

在接近完美的狀態下，這是Mogens的第三次嘗試，在5月22日的清晨六點三十分，Mogens抵達了聖母峰頂，並且停留了大約三十分鐘，在他接近峰頂的時候，他不得不使用了一些氧氣，他的氣喘毛病，讓他覺得自己似乎只能用一個肺呼吸，不使用一些氧氣，他實在無法攻上峰頂。

他的夢想終於實現了！不管他有沒有使用氧氣瓶，不管他的紀錄算不算數，我覺得那些都不重要了。他終於踏上了聖母峰頂！

這一篇文章雖然已經這麼長，大家看的頭昏眼花，但是實在無法表達出我對Mogens Jensen的崇敬於萬一。

最後，就讓我用瘋狂的尖叫聲，來表達我對他的崇拜。

啊～～～～～啊～～～～～啊～～～～～啊～～～～～啊

Mogens Jensen，Have a wonderful life！